Great Couples -

Great Couples
Matching Wines And Cheeses Takes Some Know-how

"PHOTO"
Sean D. Elliot
A Pecorino di Sardo cheese and Serego Alighieri Vaio Armaron wine are a match made in heaven, according to Ryan Connolly, manager of Brie & Bleu in New London.

By ELISSA BASS
Day Staff Columnist, Feature Editor
Published on 6/29/2005

Bogie and Bacall. John and Yoko. Hepburn and Tracy. Fred and Wilma.

Something special happens when a great match is made. The same is true of wine and cheese. But while Lauren and Humphrey may have known it was love at first sight, how is the average consumer to know if a Pinot Grigio will get along with a Camembert?

We sought help from Ryan Connolly, manager of Brie & Bleu, a gourmet cheese shop on downtown New London's Bank Street that opened last October. Brie & Bleu is — not coincidentally — next door to Thames River Wine & Spirits, an upscale wine store. Both are owned by Charlotte Hennegan and Fred Argilagos, proprietors of Thames River Greenery, which is around the corner on State Street.

One way to successfully pair cheeses with wines is geographically, Connolly says.

“Geography plays into it a lot,” he says. “The grasses, the flavors that are specific to that region. ... Within a certain micro-climate exists something unique to that place” and it translates into the wine and the cheese that comes from that place.

We asked Connolly to suggest some wine-and-cheese couplings. The cheeses are all available at Brie & Bleu and the wines are for sale at Thames River Wine & Spirits.

1. Cobb Hill Caerphilly and Sharpe Hill Cabernet Franc

Cobb Hill is a small farm in Vermont that has been making cheese for about five years. Caerphilly is an English-style cow's milk cheese, comparable in texture to a soft cheddar. But Cobb Hill's Caerphilly is unique, Connolly says, because it comes from Vermont.

“The taste is really its own, because it comes from this small farm, so it is not like anything else,” he explains. “It's the American expression of an English cheese. It is very different in flavor than English Caerphilly, which is bland. This is a lot richer flavor.”

Cost:$21 per pound.

Sharpe Hill is a small vineyard in Pomfret, “about as close as a winery gets to Vermont,” Connolly says. He describes it as a “light-bodied red.”

Cost:$17 a bottle.

2. Porbica and Dão Particular

“This is one of my favorite cheeses,” Connolly says of Porbica, a Portuguese cheese made of a blend of cow, goat and sheep milk. “It is rubbed with paprika, which imparts a nice flavor.” It is a mild cheese, but the combination of the three milks makes it “complex,” Connolly says. “It is more of a textural exercise. It's soft; it coats your mouth.”

Cost:$19 per pound.

The Dão is a single-vineyard Portuguese wine: its grapes come from only one vineyard. The winery is quite small, manufacturing only a few thousand cases a year. “It is very reflective of the place it comes from,” Connolly says of the wine's flavor. “And the great thing is, it is only 12 dollars (a bottle). Because they aren't known yet, they price themselves so people will be willing to experiment. This is one of the best 12-dollar bottles of wine you'll have in your life.”

3. Beltane Farm goat cheese and Chamard Estate Chardonnay

Beltane Farm is in Lebanon, and Chamard Vineyard is in Clinton, making them practically next door neighbors in the world of wines and cheeses. “These both show what Connecticut is capable of,” Connolly says.

“These pair together really well,” he says of the goat cheese, which is rolled in dill, and the Chardonnay. Because Beltane is just up the highway, the cheese “is about as fresh as you can get. This was milked three weeks ago.”

Cost:$7 per 4 ounces.

The Chardonnay is Chamard's Estate Reserve, which means all the grapes that went into it were grown at the vineyard in Clinton. “It is an amazing Chardonnay,” Connolly says. “It has a gorgeous golden color. It has oak (flavor) but is not over-oaked.”

Cost:$13 a bottle.

4. Pecorino di Sardo and Serego Alighieri Vaio Armaron

This sheep's milk cheese is hard and sharp. It can be served on its own, with crusty bread or crackers, or in an antipasto.

Cost:$12 per pound.

This wine goes for $60 a bottle, but it's worth it, Connolly says. The grapes at the Italian vineyard are hand-picked and then laid on hay mats to partially dry in the sun in order to concentrate the juice.

“It is the most intense, rich, deep wine,” Connolly says. “It is inky purple. It has a gorgeous flavor.” It goes well with the Pecorino, he says, because “it has enough to it to stand up to the strong flavor of the cheese.” 

Biodynamic Wines / Beer Dinner / Old Chatham Cheese

This past week was full of excitement -

Wednesday's Single Malt Scotch night was great.
Four great scotches - great food, the best deck seating in town and
of course the Davidoff Grand Cru cigars.
Thanks very much to everyone that joined us. We had a lot of fun.
The next Spirits & Cigar Nights will be on:
July 20 - Cask Finished Scotch & the hand made boutique cigars of Moore & Bode.
August 17 - Worlds Greatest Rums & cigars from Arturo Fuente .

The beer tasting on Thursday was a hoot.
The folks from Dogfish Head Brewing Company - poured with real style.
The hooked up their crazy gizmo - I like to call it the "Hops-in-a-tor" - BUT they call it "Randall The Enamel Animal" -
Basically - this thing is a large clear Cylinder that is absolutely packed with fresh hops.
Then they filter the beer through this contraption as they pour a glass.
And it delivers such a rich "hoppy" flavor that it's like getting hit in the head with a rolled up newspaper.
It's great - if you like that sort of thing.

REMEMBER - and I mention this only because so many people have asked -
Our Beer Dinner is this Thursday June 29 - starts at 6 p.m.
All of the information - menu, price, etc - can be found at: http://www.thamesriver.com/site_2/wine/calendar.html
Or give us a call - 860-443-9463 we can tell you all about it.

There has been such interest in organic & sulfite free wine lately that we have asked Mary Kaye from Organic Vintages to share with us this Friday.
She will be bringing BIODYNAMIC & Sulfite Free wines. The process to create these wines is truly special and Mary Kaye is a wealth of info.

This Friday July 1 2005 6 - 9 p.m. - NO CHARGE

1 - FREY 2003 - Biodynamic® PETITE SIRAH - $17
Estate Bottled - Redwood Valley A lovely clove and nutmeg nose. Big North Coast flavors. Jammy red fruit with loads of pepper, hints of iron. Very spicy and completely captivating. Alcohol: 14.4% by volume. Total sulfite: BATF analysis, none detected. Total production: 400 cases

2 - Guy Bossard - Bio-dynamic muscadet - $14
Nice and plump up front, with peach and floral notes, then it picks up sea salt and mineral flavors on the crisp finish.
Drink nowGuy Bossard 87 Muscadet sur lie 2003

3 - Nevada County Wine Guild - 2003 Our Daily Red- Sulfite Free Organic - $8
A light, uncomplicated blend of carignan, cabernet franc and carmine from CA. It’s an unpretentious, fun red wine that will bring joy to grilled foods, burgers, pizza and other easygoing but spunky food.of carignan, cabernet franc and carmine from CA. It’s an unpretentious, fun red wine that will bring joy to grilled foods, burgers, pizza

4 - Nevada County Wine Guild 2001 Zinfandel - Sulfite Free, Organic - $8
From the same vineyard as the Syrah, these big, tasty barrel aged wines are perfect with that mad cow or hearty Italian style dinner.

Thanks for all of the calls and emails - we love your feedback.
We are adding more "Meet the Cheese Maker" events at Brie & Bleu -
keep checking the calendar - Old Chatham Sheep Herding Company - will be the first July 14th - No Charge
Check them out at: www.blacksheepcheese.com

The weeks ahead are full of food, wine, parties and events of all shapes and sizes - thanks for your support - we appreciate it.
www.thamesriver.com is at your service 24/7 with updates and items of interest.

Please join us on Friday - it's fun, informal and a great way to start your weekend.
AAA.

Rutz Cellars / Davidoff Cigars / Dogfish Head beer

Greetings from all of us in New London -
Thames River Wine & Spirits - 84 Bank Street - 860-443-9463
Thames River Greenery - 70 State Street - 860-443-6817
Brie & Bleu - 84 bank Street - 860-437-2474
www.thamesriver.com

There is so much happening this week that I feel woooosey just thinking about it - so here we go!

The food clubs and gourmand societies of Europe have NOTHING ON US!
Our French Wine Dinner was fan-tab-u-lous. -
Thanks to everyone that attended - new faces and "regulars" alike.
These dinners are the best kept secret in New London - The next one is just around the corner - please call early for seating.
Thank you all for making it so special.

NEW TABLES AND CHAIRS for the deck at Brie & Bleu should arrive in time for the WEEKEND.
Don't forget the new menu and the new hours **NOW OPEN ON MONDAY** - check the website for more details.

THIS WEDNESDAY JUNE 22, 2005 - Starts at 6p.m.

Single Malt Scotch & Cigars.
We have selected three marvelous Single Malts and paired them with Davidoff Cigars.
The Grand Cru Series # 2 - Provided by Liberty Tobacco of San Diego California - www.libertytobacco.com
Seating is VERY limited and the cost is $25 per person - and that's for everything.
The scotch alone makes this an amazing value.
I am very glad to see that many women have reserved space - DO NOT BE SHY -
This is open to everyone - First come first served - 860-443-9463


THIS THURSDAY JUNE 23, 2005 - BEER TASTING - 5-8 p.m. NO CHARGE

DOGFISH HEAD BREWING COMPANY - www.dogfish.com/reviews.cfm
The President of our beer division - George Whitehouse - has pulled out all of the stops for this event.
This is moment so many of you have been waiting for. Join us and try four of the finest beers being made in the United States.
SO - YOU SAY YOU LIKE HOPS - TRY MATCHING YOUR SANITY AGAINST
"Randall The Enamel Animal" some call it "The Hops-in-ator"
Lots of beer - plenty of "swag" - LIVE MUSIC provided by The Governors (jazz funk trio) - and don't forget those gorgeous "Dogfish Head Girls".
Please remember to ask about our 2nd BEER DINNER on JUNE 29th -
It would mean a lot to George if you asked him about it - because his job is on the line.

Now lets pull ourselves together - shall we?

THIS FRIDAY JUNE 24, 2005 - 6-9 p.m. - NO CHARGE

RUTZ CELLARS - www.rutzcellars.com
After years of living in the Russian River Valley and inspired by the greatness of Burgundy,
Keith Rutz dreamed of making great classically-styled wines from the best Chardonnay and
Pinot Noir grapes available in California. His goal was - and is - to craft small lots of wine that
will be recognized as worthy competitors to the top French products.
Join us and try these wines you will not be disappointed.

1 - Rutz Cellars - 2001 Dutton Ranch Pinot Noir - $34
Ruby red in appearance. Smokey, spicy, black cherry nose. The finish is long and toasty with hints of more dark fruit and caramel. 
From one of the finest growers of pinot noir in the region, Dutton Ranch fruit is the backbone of Rutz Cellars' quality set.  100% Dutton Ranch pinot noir is hand picked, hand sorted, and cold-soaked.  It begins fermentation in 500 gallon open-top fermentors and finishes in small French oak barrels from Louis Latour, Claude Gillet and François Freres.  Gravity moved to repose in Rutz Cellars' caves, the wine ages in barrel for 11 months.  Deep and rich in fruit and mineral flavors.  ONLY 769 cases produced.

2 - Rutz Cellars 2001 Maison Grand Cru Pinot Noir - $23
Rutz Cellars Maison Grand Cru designation represents the best blend of the vintage from select Pinot Noir vineyards.  After cold-soaking, the juice is fermented in small open-top fermentors and is punched-down by hand 4-5 times per day to extract color and flavor.  Bright garnet in color. Intense ripe cherry and floral aromas with hints of dried rose petals. Plush, plumy, black cherry fruit flavors that are expansive on the mid-pallet have a lingering depth. The finish is long and toasty with hints of more dark fruit and caramel.

3 - Rutz Cellars 2002 Russian River Valley Chardonnay - $15
Blended from the offerings of five separate vineyards including Dutton Ranch and Martinelli.  Aged sur-lie in Louis Latour and François Freres French oak barrels for 11 months.  Bright golden-straw color. Very crisp with well-balanced acid and a touch of butterscotch on the nose. This vibrant wine offers overtones of white grapefruit, Granny Smith apples, and a bit of nectarine. Toasty French oak enhances the richness and full flavors. The finish is long and lingering.

4 - Rutz Cellars 2002 Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir - $15
A stylish blend from highly regarded Russian River and Sonoma Coast vineyards. The Russian River fruit is primarily from the Gold Ridge soil mantle, and the West Sonoma County fruit is from the Cazadero area, close to the Pacific Ocean.  The grapes are hand picked and hand sorted, then cold-soaked and fermented in small open-top fermentors.  The wine is barrel aged for 11 months in the constant natural temperature and humidity of Rutz Cellars' caves.  Aromas of strawberry and Bing cherry, spiced cherry flavors, and a long finish with moderate tannin.

Please join us. It's fun, informal and a great way to start your weekend.

Thanks for all of your comments, suggestions, and support. We appreciate all of it.
Please check the website for news, updates, and items of interest.
www.thamesriver.com

Hess Select / Otter Creek / New Hours / Cobb Hill Cheese

Greetings from all of us in New London,

Thames River Wine & Spirits - 860-443-9463
84 Bank Street New London

Thames River Greenery - 860-443-6817
70 Captain's Walk New London

Brie & Bleu - 860-437-2474
84 Bank Street New London
***** NEW HOURS **** ***** NEW HOURS **** ***** NEW HOURS ****
MONDAY Thru THURSDAY - 10 - 8 p.m
FRIDAY & SATURDAY 10 - 9 p.m.

This week Brie & Bleu is featuring COBB HILL CHEESE
Cobb Hill Cheese is made with raw whole milk from the farm’s small herd of grass fed Jersey cows.
Farmed without chemical fertilizers, feeds or additives.

www.thamesriver.com

Remember to check the calendar of events link on our website.
It has frequent updates and additions and is an excellent place to look for information of events and items of interest.

http://www.thamesriver.com/site_2/wine/calendar.html

Our Thursday Beer Tastings Continue
This Week Featuring the brews of Otter Creek & Wolavers.
THURSDAY - June -16 2005 - 5 - 8 p.m. NO CHARGE

Otter Creek & Wolaver beers are craft brewed with the finest domestic malts and hops available.
www.wolavers.com

1- COPPER ALE
Their year 'round flagship brew is Copper Ale, a medium bodied, amber ale inspired by the Altbiers of Northern Germany. Brewed with six different malts, three hop varieties and our special house yeast, Copper Ale is characterized by a well-balanced blend of malty notes and mild bitterness

2 - Wolaver's certified organic Wit Bier!
A belgian style white beer is our offering for the warmer months.
Naturally cloudy, due to a high percentage of local organic raw wheat, and mildly spiced with orange peel and coriander.
Light, fruity, and refreshing.

3 - STOVEPIPE PORTER
Stovepipe Porter is made in the traditional porter stlye, and is a favorite with all porter lovers.
Ruby-black in color, Stovepipe Porter has a rich palate and a roasted, hoppy aroma.
It is delicious on its own or with a meal, and tastes great with chocolate


THIS FRIDAY - June 17 2005 from 6-9 p.m. NO CHARGE

The HESS Collection www.hesscollection.com
The Hess Collection embraces both art and wine passionately. Their commitment to quality is evident in the contemporary paintings and sculpture lining the galleries of their Visitors Center.
It is also evident inside each bottle of the wine - from the acclaimed Hess Collection label to the popular Hess Select Wine.

1 - Cabernet Sauvignon - gold medal winner San Francisco Chronicle annual contest
This wine has all the classic Cabernet Sauvignon flavors of cherries and cassis but is further enhanced by other aspects of the blend. Syrah brings white pepper and spice, Petite Sirah adds plum, earth, and weight on the mid palate. The hint of French oak helps balance the fruit and provides focus on the aroma. The palate reveals red cherry, plum, and vanilla and the Petit Verdot and Merlot help integrate the tannins in the finish.

2 - Hess Select Chardonnay
This 2003 Hess Select Chardonnay brings fruit aromas of freshly cut pineapple, pear, and lemon blossom with notes of vanilla, caramel, and a light touch of oak. In the mouth, the fruit continues showing ripe pear, peach, and pineapple with a great texture on the mid-palate leading into a crisp, bright finish. Given the fresh fruity style, this wine is best consumed in the next two years

3 - Hess Select Syrah
A darkly colored wine with aromas of sweet blackberry, maple, and a subtle earthy character followed by caramel and a hint of almond extract.
The palate delivers sweet ripe fruit and cedar spice. The mid-palate is big with rich and fleshy tannins.
The finish offers lingering ripe fruit and supple tannin. Enjoy over the next five years.

The summer is shaping up nicely - great things happening all over town.
We have food and wine events lined up that will make your heads spin!

Please join us. It's fun, informal and a great way to start your weekend.

Thanks for all of your support - and for telling others about us.
We really appreciate it.
Hey by the way, if anyone knows Faith Middleton - we would love to show her the store.

TRW&S

Dinner of the Century - Thirsty Thursday - Oberon Tasting

Greetings from all of us in New London, CT

Thames River Wine & Spirits - 860-443-9463
Thames River Greenery - 860-443-6817
Brie & Bleu - 860-437-2474
www.thamesriver.com

The notes on this Friday night are below - but I have to mention a couple of things...
NEW HOURS for Brie & Bleu - check the website: www.thamesriver.com

It has been a week full of excitement...

There was a very special evening at Go Fish restaurant last Thursday night.
A Vintage Bordeaux Dinner - I am calling it The Dinner Of The Century
For all of our friends and customers that joined us THANK YOU.

The evening was Hosted by Mr. "Go Fish" himself - Jon Kodama
From his private cellar Jon selected bottles from ALL FIVE FIRST GROWTH CHATEAUS.
Because that's the way he rolls!

By coincidence the current issue of Wine Spectator has on it's cover the wines I am talking about.
The kitchen at Go Fish matched the food and wines with a great deal of skill. Each and every forkful was perfect.

There was also a guest speaker - a man that is intimately familiar with Bordeaux and a man that has actually met and drank with the fabled wine makers in their chateaus. Mr. Jorgé Hernandez.

He grew up in one of those wonderful european households where everyone spoke in a different language and there was wine poured at every meal.
By the time Jorgé was 15 he had already tasted most of the great wines of the world. He is a wonderful speaker and made each of us feel as though we were old friends of his. Having the opportunity to try these wines side by side and being guided by an expert - is practically a once in a life time event.
In fact there is no doubt that it would be impossible to assemble these vintages without going to special auctions and buying them from collectors.

Read the list below slowly - and picture a table covered in white linens and adorned with sparkling glasses. And picture angles with halos floating around the room - I'm telling you it was a special night.

1 - Chateau Mouton-Rothschild 1971
2 - Chateau Haut Brion 1983
3 - Chateau Margaux 1988
4 - Chateau Lataour 1979
5 - Chateau Lafite-Rothschild 1981

And with a desert of Bittersweet Chocolate Mousse
Fonseca's Finest 1977 Vintage Port
I believe that I would choose the '77 port over a "morphine drip" - yes it is that good.

It was a special night - thanks again to everyone on Jon's staff and to those of you that attended.


Now onto the visit by Beltane Farm on Saturday.
We have their wonderful new cheese at Brie & Bleu -"Dance de la Luna" if you like goat cheese this stuff will make you swoon.
Not only did they bring their latest cheeses but they actually brought a few of the goats responsible for providing the raw ingredients.
In addition there was a raffle to "Name The Goat" sponsored by Harbor School PTO.
Thanks to all of the families that turned out on Saturday - it was lots of fun.
THE WINNER: Lily Santore of New London.
THE NAME: "Lily The Kid"
Thank you Lily!

REMEMBER - We begin our "Thirsty Thursday" beer tasting series this week - June 9 from 5-8 p.m. NO CHARGE
For the next three weeks - each Thursday starting at 5 p.m. George Whitehouse will be pouring some of the finest beers in the land.
This week: It's a PILSNER Steel Cage Death Match. Featuring :

1 - Prima Pils from the Victory Brewing Company - www.victorybeer.com
Winner of Grand Champion Pilsner: United States Beer Tasting Championships 2002, 2003, 2004.

2 - Brooklyn Brewing - Pilsner - www.brooklynbrewery.com
Brooklyn Pilsner is a refreshing golden lager beer, brewed in the style favored by New York’s pre-prohibition brewers.
Brooklyn Pilsner is a very versatile beer that will pair well with a wide variety of foods. It is particularly good with chicken, seafood, pizzas, spicy foods and salads, but has the fullness of flavor to stand up to a steak as well.

3 - Pilsner Urquell - from the Czeck Republic this is a "grand daddy" of Pilsners - www.pilsner-urquell.com
The Czech Republic is renowned among connoisseurs for producing some of the finest beers in the world and a Czech pilsner like Pilsner Urquell is a shining exemplification of the quality and refinement attainable in lager beer.

THIS FRIDAY 6/10/05 - 6-9 P.M. NO CHARGE

Perhaps no name is more associated with the U.S. Wine industry than that of Mondavi.
The history of American wine making is full of high drama, big money, politics and layers of intrigue.
The Mondavi saga continues after the recent takeover of the company in a billion dollar stock deal that left the most of the original family on the outside looking in.

Michael Mondavi took his knowledge, his connections and keen ability to produce boutique wines and started OBERON.
we are featuring those wines this Friday and we have them in stock.

1 - Oberon, Cabernet Sauvignon Napa Valley - $20. - 2001

Oberon was a magical King in Shakespeare’s “A midsummer Night’s Dream”—the wine is made from the King of grapes, Cabernet Sauvignon, and is woven with the magic of Napa Valley’s world-famous winegrowing region. The 2001 growing season was one of the longest in recent history. The long hang-time on the vine resulted in rich flavors, exceptional balance and mature, ripe tannins.
The Cabernet Sauvignon grapes come from vineyards with both alluvial and volcanic soils and are blended with a touch of Merlot, Syrah, Cabernet Franc and Malbec, which all lend complexity to the wine. This is a wine with both power and elegance that exhibits lush, velvety blackberry fruit flavors accented by mocha, spicy oak flavors and muscular tannins. Oberon creates even more magic with a grilled steak or Australian lamb-chops—a meal fit for a King

2 - Oberon, Merlot Napa Valley - $20

3 - Oberon, IM Rose - $13
Created from the Cabernet grape this is a must have summer wine - it is perfect with food.

Please join us - It's fun, informal and great way to start your weekend.

Thanks for all of the emails and calls - we appreciate the feedback and remember that items of interest, news and event updates and general information can be found on our website: www.thamesriver.com

TRW&S

Bordeaux Dinner - Last of it's kind?

I had the great pleasure last night to attend a Bordeaux dinner hosted by Jon Kodama at his restaurant Go Fish.
These were wines from Jons personal cellar. It was a small gathering and went a little something like this:

1 - Chateau Mouton-Rothschild 1971
2 - Chateau Haut Brion 1983
3 - Chateau Margaux 1988
4 - Chateau Lataour 1979
5 - Chateau Lafite-Rothschild 1981

And with a desert of Bittersweet Chocolate Mousse
Fonseca's Finest 1977 Vintage Port

Mr. Jorge Hernandez was a guest speaker

The food as always at Go Fish was excellent and each course was matched with the wines with great care from the kitchen.

Mr. Hernandez noted that although these chateaus still produce exceptional wines - the style of wine making has changed and the expectations of the market have caused changes in producing these great wines - from the vineyards all the way to the cellars.

"We may never have the opportunity to try these wines side by side again". He said. "They simply are no longer available".

Thanks again to Jon Kodama - It was a generous, and exceptional gesture that allowed us a glimpse into the famed wines of Bordeaux. That's the way he rolls.....
AAA.